When it comes to anti-aging and acne treatment, retinoids (like tretinoin, adapalene, OTC Retinol, and the prescription-strength Arazlo) are some of the most effective ingredients on the market. But while they can work wonders for your skin, there’s an important rule that many people overlook: sunscreen is a must when using retinoids. In fact, if you’re not willing to consistently wear sunscreen, you may want to rethink using retinoids.
Let’s break down why sunscreen and retinoids go hand-in-hand, and why ignoring this combination can lead to more harm than good.
The Sun-Sensitivity Myth: Why Retinoids Make You More Vulnerable
One of the most common misconceptions about retinoids is that they increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun while they are on your skin.. Many people assume that since they’re using retinoids at night, they don’t need to worry about sun protection the next day. This is a myth.
The reason retinoids increase sun sensitivity has nothing to do with when you apply them. It’s not because they’re on your skin during the day, but rather because over time retinoids thin the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of your skin). This thinning effect makes your skin look better but also makes it more vulnerable to UV damage, even if you’re only outside for a short time.
Here’s the key: Using retinoids without sunscreen during the day is a bad idea—and the damage can occur even when you apply retinoid products at night. Tretinoin is inactivated by sunlight, so it’s recommended that it be applied at night.
The Risk of Stopping Retinoids Before Vacation
Another common mistake people make is stopping their retinoid use when they know they’ll be in the sun—such as before a beach vacation. Many believe that taking a break from their retinoid use before heading to a sunny destination will help prevent sunburn or damage. This is also a myth.
One of the beneficial effects of retinoids is that they remove the outer layer of the skin, improving fine lines and wrinkles and the overall appearance of the skin. If you stop using them, it takes weeks for the skin to thicken again. By stopping your retinoid use in advance of a sunny holiday you may end up with worse acne or signs of aging once you return from vacation because you’ve missed out on the consistent benefits of the retinoid for those crucial two weeks, and there was no improvement in sun sensitivity: a lose/lose proposition.
The Importance of Sunscreen: Every Day, No Excuses
No matter your age, sunscreen is essential when using retinoids. The combination of the two is what allows you to experience all the anti-aging benefits of retinoids without risking sun damage. Here’s why:
Retinoids thin the skin: As mentioned, retinoids work by speeding up cell turnover, which can make the skin more delicate. With thinner skin, your body is less able to protect itself from UV rays, so sunscreen becomes your first line of defense.
Sunburn accelerates aging: Sun damage is the number one cause of visible aging—wrinkles, dark spots, and loss of skin elasticity. If you’re using retinoids to fight wrinkles, pigmentation, or acne, you must protect your skin from the sun to see the best results.
Increased risk of pigmentation: Retinoids can help fade dark spots and even skin tone, but unprotected sun exposure can actually worsen pigmentation. Even a brief period in the sun can undo your progress if you’re not using sunscreen.
Should You Stop Retinoids When Traveling?
Many people consider taking a break from their retinoid use when traveling to places with intense sun exposure (like tropical vacations). However, the truth is, you shouldn’t stop your retinoid just because you’re going on vacation. Instead, make sure you’re extra vigilant about sunscreen.
Use a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 (preferably 50) to ensure your skin is protected throughout the day.
Apply sunscreen every two hours, and don’t forget to reapply after swimming or sweating.
If you’re spending long hours outside, wear protective clothing and seek shade when possible.
By continuing your retinoid use and prioritizing sunscreen, you’ll not only maintain your results but also avoid exacerbating your acne or aging concerns. Remember, consistency is key when it comes to both retinoids and sunscreen.
Can You Use Retinoids in the Morning?
A common question people have is whether it’s okay to apply retinoids in the morning instead of at night. While it’s generally recommended to apply them at night because tretinoin and other retinoids are inactivated by sunlight, retinoids like Arazlo and Aapalene are photostable and can be used at any time of day. Regardless of the time of retinoid application, sunscreen use in the morning is mandatory.